An economics professor's winemaking journey in NE China mountains

CHANGCHUN, June 16 (Xinhua) -- In the remote and rugged expanses of northeast China's Changbai Mountain, where towering birch trees dominate the landscape, an unexpected fragrance lingers -- the scent of fermenting birch sap -- emanating from the innovative winery of Chen Lifeng, an economics professor turned winemaker.

Chen's transition from academia to winemaking began in 2010 when the Baihe Forestry Bureau sought fresh economic prospects, prompting Chen, an employee of Jilin University, to propose the idea of harnessing the region's plentiful birch sap to craft wine.

With the support of the forestry bureau, which provided land and resources, Chen brought his academic rigor and innovative spirit to the remote Erdaobaihe town, nestled at the foot of Changbai Mountain.

Local loggers, who have long believed in the health benefits of birch sap, served as inspiration for Chen as he embarked on crafting a new kind of wine, he explained.

Thanks to support from scientific research institutions, a low-temperature fermentation method was developed to retain the natural properties of the sap while enhancing its flavor.

Today, Chen's company, Yanbian Yida Birch Industry Co., Ltd., stands as a testament to his vision and perseverance. Producing pure birch wine free of additives and artificial colors, the winery has earned a reputation extending well beyond its remote location. In 2020, Chen's birch wine won the gold award at the Panama GFSF Exposition.

Sustainability is always at the heart of Chen's wine-making philosophy. Even as production has scaled up to 200 tonnes per year, he insists on eco-friendly practices. "While we reap the gifts of nature, we must also avoid depleting its resources," he said, adding that he only taps sap from mature trees and seals extraction points to prevent damage.

Chen's journey exemplifies China's comprehensive efforts toward sustainable forestry in the country. According to China's National Forestry and Grassland Administration, in 2023, the total output value of the country's forestry and grassland industries surpassed 9.2 trillion yuan (about 1.29 trillion U.S. dollars), with output of economic forest products reaching 226 million tonnes. The economic forest product has become China's third-largest agricultural product, involving over 40 million people.

Logging is now a thing of the past. In 2005, Jilin Province established the Changbai Mountain Protection Development Management Committee to strengthen the protection of Changbai Mountain. A ban on commercial logging was also initiated in key state forests in northeast China in 2015.

The province has firmly embedded the "protection first" concept in the hearts of its people through initiatives such as the Songhua River source protection project and projects aimed at safeguarding mountains, water, forests, farmland, lakes and grasslands.

Recently, Chen's son returned to his hometown after studying winemaking in Canada to follow in his father's footsteps.

Despite the advances in technology, traditional winemaking faces challenges, with market fluctuations and climate impacts adding complexity to the winery's operations. Yet, Chen remains optimistic. In the high altitudes of Changbai Mountain, the rich aroma of birch wine promises a bright future for this unique venture.