College students reinvigorate traditional Yi embroidery in SW China's Yunnan

Combo photo shows Yi embroidery works on display at an exhibition in Chuxiong Yi Autonomous Prefecture, southwest China's Yunnan Province. The exhibition offers transformable design solutions for developing innovative embroidery products that combine youthful aesthetics with a sense of fashion. (Photo/Yang Wanzhi, Ding Keran)

At an exhibition showcasing Yi embroidery held in Chuxiong Yi Autonomous Prefecture, southwest China's Yunnan Province, 40 pieces from five different collections by Shi Yi, a teacher at the School of Arts, Yunnan Normal University, were on display. These works blended the traditional charm of Yi embroidery with the modern aesthetics of youth, offering a fresh take on fashion. The pieces received high praise from industry professionals attending the event.

The works were previously showcased at an exhibition at the university's art gallery. Student Luo Ronglong initially thought that the color schemes and patterns of traditional Yi embroidery were outdated and incompatible with modern design. However, after taking part in a creative design competition, his perspective changed. He transformed traditional Yi fire-striker patterns into the loading screen of an app . As users open the app, the image comes to life.

Zhao Yifei, another student from the university who participated in the competition, first encountered traditional Yi embroidery during a class taught by Pu Yuzhen, a representative inheritor of Yi ethnic costumes, a national intangible cultural heritage in China. In the class, she learned to recognize different patterns and stitching techniques. "It was the first time I realized how vibrant and lively traditional craftsmanship could be," she said.

Zhao incorporated representative elements of Yi embroidery into her competition piece, using a classical color palette and reinterpreting them with simple color combinations and lines. Her work preserved the charm of traditional Yi embroidery, while adding a modern element. The pattern is versatile and suitable for a variety of items, including posters, notepads, postcards, phone cases, and clothing.

On the day of the exhibition, 10 inheritors of intangible cultural heritage at various levels stole the spotlight as they showcased costumes from different branches of the Yi ethnic group. Pu said that through the works, she could feel the aesthetic sensibilities and consumer trends of young people. She believes their creations will serve as a source of inspiration for future innovations.

Over the last four years, Shi has communicated with 29 prominent inheritors of intangible cultural heritage at various levels. In her view, bringing inheritors of intangible cultural heritage into universities for direct interaction with students helps prevent the superficial appropriation or misinterpretation of cultural symbols.

Additionally, Shi and her team have incorporated Yi embroidery into five design courses, guiding students to avoid superficial creation and first to understand traditional patterns, craftsmanship, and symbolism. With this foundation, students are encouraged to apply modern design principles and techniques to develop innovative, well-considered solutions.

In 2025, the output value of Yi embroidery in Chuxiong reached 1.15 billion yuan (about $165 million), and the number of businesses in the industry has surged from over 530 in 2022 to over 2,230, employing around 60,000 female embroiderers.