Distinctive stinky tofu reflects Changsha’s returning vitality

It smells pungent, but tastes awesome.

If every city has its unique taste, the one defining Changsha, capital of central China's Hunan Province, should be its "fragrant" stinky tofu.

Stinky tofu is sold along streets in Changsha, capital of central China's Hunan Province. (People's Daily Online/Yuan Meng)

Soybeans undergo various processes such as sifting, soaking, grinding, filtering, boiling, and fermentation. They become raw bean curd, soaked in brine, emitting a pungent smell that makes people frown and cover their noses.

However, to experienced stinky tofu chefs, those black tofu cubes with a funky odor possess unique qualities. By examining the color, shape, scent, and texture, they select the best bean curds and deep-fry them with oil. A bowl of crispy stinky tofu is thus made.

Deng Lili holds a bowl of stinky tofu in her hand on the Huangxing Road pedestrian street, Changsha, capital of central China's Hunan Province. (People's Daily Online/Yuan Meng)

Deng Lili, a young chef specializing in frying stinky tofu, has her own tricks in cooking. She makes the tofu distinctive by poking holes in freshly fried tofu, filling it with broth and local chili sauce, and garnishing it with coriander and diced radish. Crispy on the surface and tender on the inside, the tofu bursts with seasoning sauce after one bite, rendering a delightful aftertaste for foodies.

Tourists take photos in front of Deng Lili's stinky tofu store on Huangxing Road pedestrian street, Changsha, capital of central China's Hunan Province. (People's Daily Online/Yuan Meng)

Deng's store is located along the Huangxing Road pedestrian street, one of the bustling areas in Changsha. During the recent Spring Festival, Changsha, which had fully recovered from the COVID-19 pandemic, saw visitors from all over the country and a booming market. Tourists holding bowls of stinky tofu were seen everywhere in Wuyi Square, a shopping district in Changsha. During the holiday, they sold up to 10,000 bowls of stinky tofu a day, with customers lining up across the road, introduced Deng.

"Changsha people have a fiery personality and relish deep-fried, crispy, and crunchy snacks. The stinky tofu is an iconic dish of Changsha cuisine. Visitors from other places also love it," she said.

People in Hunan are known for their hardship, tenacity, and fierceness. Deng, working tirelessly in her tiny store and shuttling back and forth in front of the frying pan, represents the Hunan spirit.

Stinky tofu, with its unique color and odor, has accompanied Changsha people through years, and has been etched in the memory of every traveler in Changsha.

"Whenever I hear customers say, 'Your stinky tofu is perfect,' or 'Changsha is a place worth visiting,' I feel warm and pleasant," added Deng.