Crickets, Walnuts and More in Qingta Hutong (5)

Further north is where the rest of the non-cricket pets are found. Myna birds, exotic turtles and more are on display inside and outside the stores. A woman sitting on the sidewalk asks everyone who walks by if they want a dog. A crate of writhing mealworms basks in the sun. Schools of feeder fish frantically await their destiny in open metal boxes.

A man selling walnut exercise balls and bracelets looks over the market.

"There's not much history here," he says. "This place started up 10 years ago, and it's already been shut down once. The main space of the market has been shut down for three years now. But some people still come here to play."

If anything, he was being modest. The market is particularly vibrant on weekends, even during the winter months. The crickets manage to chirp all year round, keeping things lively. And come August, the fighting field crickets will bolster the atmosphere as their fights to the death draw speculators, gamblers and curious onlookers alike.

Getting to Qingta Hutong: From Chegongzhuan subway station (Line 2), take exit D, walk south five minutes to Xigongjiang Hutong on the left. Walk 50 meters in before turning right into Beiyudai Hutong.

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