Spanish climber Gines Lopez wins first-ever sport climbing Olympic gold in Tokyo 2020

TOKYO, Aug. 5 (Xinhua) -- Spain's Alberto Gines Lopez became the first-ever sport climbing Olympic champion, as the 18-year-old won gold in men's combined in the sport's Olympic debut here on Thursday.

Ranking first, seventh, and fourth respectively in speed, bouldering and lead climbing final, Lopez positioned himself at the top among the eight finalists, closely followed by Nathaniel Coleman of the United States.

The local favorite Tomoa Narasaki finished fourth, shy of the podium after being stunned by the champion in speed final and surprisingly placing sixth in lead and third in bouldering, which had long been his strongest discipline.

Chinese climber Pan Yufei didn't make it to the final after placing 14th among the 20 athletes in the qualification round which took place on Tuesday.

"I could have done better than this. Getting rid of the mistakes that I made in speed, I pulled myself together and strived for a better place in bouldering and lead, but it's been too long since the last time I competed abroad and I just couldn't find my rhythm on the wall," said Pan after the qualification round.

The head coach of Chinese sport climbing team Zhao Lei was satisfied with Pan and Song Yiling, a 20-year-old Chinese climber who was also eliminated in the qualification of women's combined.

"Both Pan and Song are capable of achieving better positions on the table. What they lack is experience. Song's injury in the left shoulder also hampered her performance," said Zhao, who is confident that Chinese climbers will make a difference in Paris, where the total number of medal events will increase to four.

In Paris 2024, two competitions will crown their own olympic champion in sport climbing. One will be a combined competition of bouldering and lead events, and the second one will only feature a speed event.

The women's combined final will conclude sport climbing's Olympic debut on Friday.