A county of chefs (3)

Take the noodle classic: dry fried beef noodles in black bean sauce. On my first night at the Sheraton, we order room service after an extremely long and tiring day. The beef noodles that come almost reduce me to tears.

It is an incredible feeling of deja vu.

The noodles are crisp and fragrant, with a bite that contrasted with the flavorful black bean and garlic sauce. The slices of beef are just cooked and do not need much teeth work. And finally, diamonds of colored peppers add both color and texture to the dish.

By the time the platter is cleaned, my mood is restored and I'm ready for bed.

That is what makes Shunde food so good. It is great comfort food, especially for a southern Chinese.

If you are at China Spice, there are two other must-order dishes that I would definitely recommend - the savory eel rice, and the shredded fish broth, both of which make use of the seafood so easily available in Guangzhou.

The very tasty pigeon, a Cantonese roast meat specialty, may need to be ordered ahead, but if you like gamey birds, it is worth the effort to call in advance.

Of course, no self-respecting Cantonese restaurant would be without its dim sum selection, and the trinity of char siew bao, siew mai and har gow are all excellent.

For desserts, you have to try the young coconut tarts and the little steamed almond sponges. They are truly feel-good treats.

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