Fish, shells and crustaceans (4)

Ben Huang, the Chinese executive chef of the Four Points Sheraton in Guangzhou is my guide, and he is a walking encyclopedia of all the various fishes that we see next.

Spotted groupers, flower groupers, star groupers swim in huge aquariums, oblivious to the hungry eyes that are weighing up their suitability for the dinner table.

Chef Huang says that the best size for a classic Cantonese steamed fish is a 1 kg fish. Any larger and the flesh would lose its smooth silky texture.

Huang also points out the sea eels, the rabbit fishes and the flounders that are popular in various other dishes. The variety is amazing and the amount of cash that passes through here is equally astounding.

As we pick our way among the aquariums, we see a wriggling basket full of puffer fish. Startled, I turned to the chef with raised eyebrows.

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