Bites of Italy satisfy in Beijing (2)

For mains, our table concentrated on the extensive ravioli menu. While each of the pasta's tasted good, none was brilliant. There seems to be an overreliance on parsley as a garnish, when a simple swirl of olive oil and some freshly cracked black pepper might have done the job better.

The Milano ravioli, filled with a very sweet pumpkin mixture, was supposed to come with a sage-butter sauce. Unfortunately, not a hint of sage could be detected, leaving the pumpkin to languish on its own in the unseasoned pasta pocket.

A ravioli that boasts speck (smoked prosciutto) and taleggio cheese as its filling will no doubt turn out quite salty. A balancing act is required of the sauce it is served with, but the "creamy tomato porchetta sauce" served with the Lombardia ravioli was disappointing.

What this dish needs is a fresher and smoother sauce - and a healthier splash of it atop the pasta couldn't hurt, either.

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