Mysteries of the Silk Road revealed in Gansu pass (4)

Nanguo Temple, located on a hill in suburban Tianshui, attracts trekkers on the weekends. After a 30- to 45-minute trek, you can see two 2,500-year-old cypress trees and walk in several gardens filled with bamboo and peach blossoms in spring. Newly married couples often have their photos taken in this setting, Zhou Fatian, a man over 80 years old, is a famous guide who charges 200 yuan (US$32) for a tour.

The Tianshui railway station in Maiji District is fairly near the Maijishan Grottoes. Other sites including Fu Xi Temple and Nanguo Temple are in Qinzhou District, 40 minutes' drive from the railway station.

If you go What to have:

Santaoche or troika: A three-part meal in Wuwei that includes a cup of red jujube tea stewed with brown sugar or rock sugar, a plate of marinated pork with coriander and a bowl of hand-made noodles.

Stewed lamb: Lamb in Gansu Province is juicy, sometimes a bit spicy and often served with garlic.

Hanwuyu liquor: A famous Gansu distilled liquor produced in Jiuquan, literally meaning liquor spring. The name comes from Liu Che, known as the Emperor Wu in the Han Dynasty. Liu conquered neighboring countries, expanded China's borders and was one of the most successful emperors in history. The liquor is said to have been a reward from Emperor Wu to his general, who poured it into a spring in today's Jiuquan and shared with his soldiers to celebrate victory.

If you go

Where to stay:

The overnight train is strongly recommended within Gansu, since it's fast and inexpensive, saving trouble in finding accommodation outside Lanzhou.

In Lanzhou there's a wide choice of accommodation, including 10-yuan dormitory beds in Lanzhou University, chain hotels such as Home Inn (one near Lanzhou Museum and Qilihe District) and luxury hotels such as the Lanzhou Hotel.

Tips:

The best time to visit Gansu is from May to October. Remember that it's hot, windy and dusty, so cover up and dress appropriately. Sunglasses, head scarves, and sunscreen are a must.

It gets cold at night and in caves, so take an extra jacket. Flashlights are essential.

It's safe to travel in Gansu. Remember to respect the customs of ethnic minorities such as the Hui people in Lanzhou and Tibetan people in Linxia.

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