Stepping it up with Beijing hikers (3)

But even the flat sections were a barrage of pleasant scenery. The group happily plodded forwards, and it seemed only natural that people would discuss topics from cycle tour honeymoons to disease-ridden inflatable sex dolls.

Only as people started gasping along the final ascent of Yinshan Mountain did the bouncing banter fade away. At the summit lookout, people joyously flopped down and admired the view, so happy with their accomplishment that they ignored the hazy view: "Wow. Wow. This is amazing."

The descent down the front of the mountain was swift, with pit stops to ring a massive Buddhist bell, and take in a Tibetan stupa and an "ancient" Buddhist rock carving. "It's fake," decided Paul Meyer, a German man who was accompanying his parents. Most hikers seemed to agree.

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