Yangzhou, of gardens and gourmets (4)

Then we turn down Dongguan Street - a 1 km stretch of trendy shops, bars and restaurants in traditional buildings. It's a great place to swill sweet rice wine and nibble baked sesame cakes with turnip slices.

Many high-end eateries here are converted from old manors, such as Jienan Shuwu, which occupies a salt dealer's former residence, and Hu Zhonghan Hall, the ancient abode of a powerful bank owner.

We take the local gourmands' advice and head to another famous traditional eatery, Fuchun Chashe. Next, I hit up Luyang Hotel, which was a hub for ancient scholars and celebrities. From there, I stroll to Xiao Pan Gu - the former residence of Zhou Fu, a Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) official that has been reincarnated as a luxurious hotel and club.

Yangzhou enjoyed prosperity during the late Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) and the Republic of China (1912-49).

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