Asiad sharpens Japan's climbing talent Anraku before Paris Olympic qualifier

HANGZHOU, Oct. 7 (Xinhua) -- After winning the Hangzhou Asian Games, 16-year-old Sorato Anraku, the youngest-ever sport climbing Asian Games champion from Japan, now has his eyes on qualification for next year's Paris Olympic Games.

"I'm happy to win such a big competition," said Anraku after taking gold in the men's combined, adding that the quality of the event was on par with the World Cup.

"I thought the lower and middle parts of the lead route in the final were quite difficult actually. It was super hard," said Anraku.

According to Anraku, a challenging competition was just what the rising star needed before the upcoming Asian qualifier in Jakarta, where only the highest-placed climber in men's combined will progress to Paris.

"This event has been good as [I'm able to gain] more competition practice ahead of the Olympic qualifier in Jakarta. I feel like I am in really good shape. Perfect," he added.

A total of 20 athletes per gender will compete in the combined event at Paris 2024, with a maximum of four quotas, two men and two women, available to each NOC. Quotas are allocated to each qualified athlete's name, as opposed to their NOC, as is the case in some other sports.

At the 2023 World Championships which concluded in August, Austria's Jakob Schubert and Colin Duffy of the United States took the first pair of quota places for Paris as the duo clinched a 1-2 finish in the men's combined, while Anraku settled for fourth place behind his fellow Japanese, the legendary Tomoa Narasaki.

Growing up in a powerhouse nation for sport climbing, Anraku has made the most of the Japanese climbing community. Meichi Narasaki, Japan's other combined climber, is one of the seniors who offered Anraku guidance on walls back home.

"He's got very good experience in Japan. We have a lot of competitions with a lot of good climbers, and a good balance of training and competition," said Hiroshi Yasui, Anraku's coach.

On the other hand, the emerging talent also has to face fierce competition to vie for an Olympic spot. Anraku recalled several times when he triumphed over overseas climbers but lost out to his compatriots.

"In Japan there are many good boulder climbers. My strengths are not that outstanding in comparison to other climbers. That's why I need to make a constant effort," said a modest Anraku.

"But when it comes to the lead, I'm confident to say that I'm one of the best in the world," the teen added.

Anraku stunned the climbing world by winning double overall World Cup titles in men's boulder and lead this year. Arriving in Hangzhou in his first senior season, he had been regarded as odds-on favorite for the title.

"[Being in the] Asian Games, it's such a special stage for sport climbing. It will be a great promotion for the sport," Anraku said.