Female inheritor conveys beauty of traditional Chinese culture through exquisitely crafted knot buttons

“There is a story behind every hand-made knot button,” remarked Xu Dongfang, an inheritor of the traditional knot button making techniques from southeast China’s Fujian Province, as she held a needle in hand and skillfully knitted a knot button used to embellish a Qipao, a classic one-piece, tight-fitting Chinese dress that accentuates a woman’s figure.

Photo shows Xu Dongfang busy making a Qipao knot button. (Photo/Ye Qiuyun)

Knot buttons emerged as a traditional craft in the early years of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), and have been commonly applied for use as fasteners and decorative items on clothing. Nowadays, because of the rapid development of modern industrial civilization, along with people’s changing lifestyles and faster pace of life, the knot button folk craft has gradually been neglected and forgotten in recent years, having become something of a strange novelty for younger generations.

Xu, born in the 1980s, started to learn the skills when she was about 10 years old. With a bachelor’s degree in textiles design, Xu has always had a strong passion for making the knot buttons despite having taken up work as a graphic designer. In 2012, Xu started to learn the knot button-making techniques from senior craftsmen in Fuzhou, and two years later, she opened up her own workshop in the city.

Xu Dongfang showcases a decorative item she made that features facial makeup styles inspired by Kunqu opera. (Photo/Ye Qiuyun)

To improve her skills and expand her knowledge of the knot button craft, Xu made several trips to Jiangsu Province, Shanghai, and Shenzhen to learn additional knitting skills from senior folk artists living in these localities. “Each teacher had his or her own techniques, and I benefited a lot by seeing their works,” said Xu.

Nowadays, Xu’s workshop, which displays knot buttons in different shapes, is able to attract craft lovers, local citizens and tourists to come and appreciate the beauty of the traditional craft.

Xu said some of the knot buttons were designed by her according to the needs of individual clients, while others were designed by her in an attempt to match the styles of different Qipao dresses. She disclosed that there are more than 20 procedures involved in knitting a single knot button. Thus, patience and a peaceful state of mind are some of the critical attributes needed to successfully perform the painstaking task.

Photo shows Xu Dongfang making a Qipao knot button. (Photo/Ye Qiuyun)

In April 2020, the Qipao knot button making craft was inscribed as an intangible cultural heritage item in the Gulou district of Fuzhou.

While endeavoring to carry forward the craft, Xu has been making concerted efforts to integrate the knot button-making techniques with other traditional crafts, such as embroidery, needling, weaving, and lacquer painting, so as to inject renewed vitality into the craft.

Photo shows knot buttons made by Xu Dongfang. (Photo/Ye Qiuyun)

Xu Dongfang (middle) teaches craft lovers how to make traditional knot buttons. (Photo/Ye Qiuyun)