Dali — Capital of an ancient Kingdom (3)

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Yangren Street, literally Foreigners' Street, is packed with Western cafes, bars and restaurants. It's the place tourism first boomed as visitors flocked to the small city surrounded by mountains.

Modern bars with flashing lights and music contrast with the ancient city and tranquil mountains.

Streets are always packed with flower vendors since the year-round climate is spring-like. The fragrant flowers add a romantic vibe to the ancient city.

As I walked along Fuxing Road and passed Yangren Street, the tourist bustle and souvenir shops were left behind. It became more quiet and authentic.

Buildings are not prettied up and reconstructed for tourists but retain their original look. People go about their daily lives. There are small, modest (and excellent) restaurants, butcher shops and various stores, schools and a hospital.

Teenagers chat on their way home from schools, elderly women shop with bamboo baskets on their backs, store owners sit at the doorway, smoking meter-long water pipes. There's a church and a mosque.

It's still possible to enjoy the real Dali.

How to get there:

There are direct flights from Shanghai to Dali. You can also fly first to Kunming, the provincial capital, and then take a 4-5 hours bus ride to Dali. A taxi from the bus station to Dali ancient city costs around 40 yuan (US$6.45) while a cab from Dali airport is around 150 yuan.

Where to stay:

There are many hotels and hostels catering to every taste and budget. You can book most online. Some visitors stay in hostels in villages near Erhai Lake, a 15-minute drive from the city.

What to eat:

Typical Dali cuisine features sour and spicy fish and braised chicken, and most city restaurants offer good takes on these dishes. Western bars and restaurants can be found on Yangren Street.

Some dishes are cooked with flowers — such as scrambled eggs with roses, a specialty in Dali. Freshly squeezed juice is very good.

Tips:

The center of modern Dali City is Xiaguan, a newly developed administrative center. Shuttle buses from the airport only stop at Xiaguan. From Xiaguan, you can take the No. 4 bus or a taxi to Dali ancient city, which is about 20 minutes away.

Admission to Dali city wall: 2 yuan

Bikes can be rented to explore the ancient city. Many rental stalls are on Bo'ai Road in the western part of the city. Rental fees are 20-30 yuan per hour.

Yunnan coffee is famous and makes a good gift. The province is China's major coffee-producing area, with a climate similar to Brazil's. Don't buy high-priced coffee on popular Fuxing Road, which has many coffee shops. Go to Bo'ai Road where prices are much more reasonable. Another famous Yunnan beverage Pu'erh Tea — a fermented dark tea — can also be found everywhere but make sure you check out a few shops for price and quality before making a purchase.

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