Netting some island tranquillity (3)

A ticket for Liujing Pond is 25 yuan. Remember to bring a warm coat because the sea breeze can be bracing.

Waiting in the chilly pre-dawn glimmer as rays grade orange along the horizon is rewarded when the sun disc finally emerges, casting mysterious splendor to the sky, clouds and islands far away.

Little by little, the cherry red morning sun rises, until eventually it breaks free from the waves, its red and gold sunglow crowning sea, sky and clouds.

But of course, seeing this daily natural miracle depends on the weather, which, in locals' eyes, depends on one's luck. So, good luck.

Morning is the busiest time at local market, when the freshest seafood is available. A taxi ride from Liujing Pond to the grocery market costs around 30 yuan.

In addition to fresh seafood packed in ice, dried and packed fare is also available. And if you pass local snack stores that serve breakfast, try the porridge served with tiny sauteed shrimps, which smells so good when served hot and tastes crisp and savory.

The next trip is to tour around some of the islands. There are a dozen of scenic sites dotted on the islands, and here are some suggestions. Please check with your accommodation about transport.

Dabei Mountain in the east of Shengsi Island is the best spot to get a panoramic view of your surroundings. Locals say you can appreciate all the different aspects of the sea the whole year round: mists in spring; a glittering seascape in summer; huge tides in autumn; and white-capped waves and sea spray in winter.

On the mountain is a Linyin Buddhism Temple, of which the oldest part was built 1,000 years ago and since ancient times has been a sanctuary for local fishermen.

Also according to ancient books, during the Tang Dynasty (618–907) monk Jian Zhen, who preached Buddhism to Japan six times, was twice cast up on the shore in his ship during storms. The spot is marked to commemorate the eminent monk.

Shengsi's island location has led to its people to create distinctive art - mostly about the fishing life - in a colorful, imaginative naive style.

The tradition continues, especially at Bianjiao Village, where many exterior walls of fishermen's homes feature vivid fisherman paintings.

A different artistic touch can be found in Tianqiao Village, where the outside walls of locals' house are all painted yellow, in different shades such as pale yellow, lemon yellow and maple yellow, all according to the color design system tailored for the village by Song Jianming, the leading color expert of the country.

All those sites can be reached by taxi, or you can charter a bus with other travelers.

After rounding off the trip with another lunch of Shengsi seafood, it's time to catch the ferry and say goodbye to the "fairyland in the sea."

How to get there

Buy a one-way ticket for around 200 yuan (US$32) per person at Nanpu Coach Station. It's better to organize the return time for the afternoon of the second day.

The bus will take you to Shenjiawan Dock from where a ferry will take you to Shengsi. Morning buses leave at 7:00am, 7:30am, 8:40am, 9:10am and 9:50am, and the total trip takes about three hours.

For more transport information please call 1373-2538-680, the Shenjiawan Dock's customer service line. Also, you can drive to Shenjiawan dock to catch the ferry.

What to pack

Pack for the sea and beach - sandals, sunglasses and sun hat - but swimming costumes are not necessary, unless you can bear cold water.

Also, take some warm clothes as there is a marked temperature difference between day and night.

Don't forget to bring seasickness pills in case the crossing is choppy.

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