Best pairing with beloved crustacean: Sherry (2)

The first stage of making Sherries is the same as making white wines, but when the special Solera aging process begins, the wines take on their unique qualities. Pale Sherries like Manzanilla and Fino undergo the entire aging process protected by a natural occurring yeast called flor that protects the wine from the oxygen, while darker Sherries like Oloroso have higher amounts of alcohol added that kills the protective flor and the wines undergo oxidative aging. All Sherries must be aged three years in stacked rows of American oak casks that are stored in Cathedral-like buildings with ample aeration.

Manzanilla is the most delicate style of Sherry that's aged under a very special type of flor that only grows in Sanlucar de Barrameda near the ocean. This straw-colored, fresh and slightly salty wine goes well with a wide variety of seafood including hairy crab. The zesty qualities of the wine bring out the natural flavors of the crab while the alcohol cleanses the mouth.

Fino is a pale golden colored wine that has more structure and weight than Manzanilla wines. More pungent specimens of hairy crab are especially good with Fino as the strong smell and taste of the crab doesn't overwhelm the Sherry as would happen with many ordinary white wines.

The Fino, like the Manzanilla, accentuates the freshness of the crab. The yeasty nature of many Finos also adds further flavor dimensions to the crab meat and roe.

Amontillado is a very special style of Sherry starting its life as a Fino Sherry that undergoes biological aging, and then goes through the oxidative aging process that bequeaths extra color, weight and complexity.

The combination of a brilliant amber color and elegant aromas make Amontillado one of the most pleasing of styles of Sherries and also a wine that beautifully accompanies many refined Chinese dishes. To borrow an analogy from the music world, when Amontillado meets hairy crab, the wine adds complementary instruments to the harmonious symphonic experience in your palate.


But what makes Sherry the ultimate wine for hairy crabs? Acidic white wines can be very good with hairy crabs as their acidity and freshness bring out the best qualities of the crab meat, but you have to compromise on the use of vinegar since more acidic versions of vinegar clash with the wines. Shaoxing has history on its side as it's traditionally been the favored wine to pair with hairy crabs and, unlike white wines, it is not compromised by the vinegar.

But the simple truth is that even the top old Shaoxing wines that I've been fortunate to taste can't compete with better-quality Sherries in terms of complexity, persistence and intensity. At best, Shaoxing wine is a neutral partner to hairy crab, while the correct Sherry is an embellisher.

One of the beauties of Sherry is the diversity of styles, from bone dry to extremely sweet. The best Sherries to match with hairy crabs are the more delicate dry styles, namely Manzanilla, Fino or Amontillado.