Not for the faint-hearted: Inner Mongolia (2)

Email|Print|Comments       twitter     facebook     Sina Microblog     reddit    

It was an early rise the next morning at 6 am, when the family started the day with a wholesome breakfast made of leftovers from the night before and fried dough balls that were dipped into more of that savoury-tasting milk tea. Afterwards, the family got dressed in traditional robes, full of bold colors and motifs - and it was picture time! We snapped ourselves in front of the tents, in the fields, by beautiful sun-colored petals, and even borrowed the horse of a rider, who generously lent us his dark beauty for a digital memory.

After the photo shoot, a couple with a young child and some relatives who had been visiting drove off in a pick-up truck. As per the usual day-to-day routine, the head of the household and his wife along with their two sons stayed behind in case some tourists came wanting lunch. The extended family living in the grasslands, a few cousins and sisters and their families, share the area and though quartered in separate yurts, divide all the meals and cooking among themselves. The men are responsible for going out in the fields to care for their livestock, and also make the kill when the sheep meat runs out. Venturing further out in the grasslands, I met Xiaoxue, my new Mongolian friend.

After she insisted that I join her family for lunch, we made our way over to a nearby hut-like home, a distinguished yurt, where her grandmother sat, welcoming us. An old woman with a wrinkled face and silver jewellery hanging off her tired body, she was kind and spirited despite her worn exterior that visibly revealed she had led no easy life. Her eyes gleaned warmly and she never let go of my hand, constantly ensuring that I had enough to eat, topping up my tea and feeding me more cheese before lunch was ready. She showed me where the boys were working in the field, where sheep and cows waited for us to turn on the water pump so they could wet their lips. There was a problem with the machine so we ended up manually pumping the water to satisfy the thirsty animals. Another boy, a young man perhaps, captured one of the sheep with a lasso-like rope attached to a long pole, and tied the animal down - before preparing its meat for our lunch. As a large plate of bloody meat sat imposingly on our table, the man continued to hack away at the dead sheep while two of the women busied themselves cleaning its insides out.

Mongolians have a use for every part of the sheep they kill. Sheep milk is used to make tea, yoghurt and cheese while slabs of meat are stored in fridges and divided among families. The animal's skin serves to cover their homes. And fermented sheep milk, which is a different-tasting way to get a buzz, was put back by the women after lunch as they gossiped - and made me feel like I was one of them that day.

Later, Xiaoxue must have read my mind because she took me out for horseback riding, under a sky that had turned pink after a rainstorm that had gone as quickly as it had come while we were sipping our alcoholic milk beverages. With a trained guide to oversee our safety, I hoisted myself on to a small but robust and playful snowy white gelding. Contrary to horses back home in Switzerland, Mongolian horses trot on quickly rather galloping along smoothly. The wind rushing against my face made my eyes cry and as my horse swept me away into the fields I felt exhilarated.

A trip to Xiwuqi is an unbelievably humble experience full of stunning views and natural beauty. But be prepared to live in simple conditions. Even in summer, the nights can cool right down and toilets behind camp areas are rudimentary, but useful for hand-washing before meals as some foods are eaten by hand. I was heartbroken to leave the family who couldn't have been better hosts. As I left, the father handed me a white scarf, a symbol of good luck and respect, while the mother gave me one of her bracelets so that I would always keep a bit of their homeland with me - "You have a Mongolian family now," she told me.

Rules of Thumb

How to go?

Regular one-hour flights connect Beijing to Xilinhot, the only airport in the region. Public buses from Beijing also do the trip to Xiwuxi, which takes about 12 hours.

A taxi is then needed to make your way to the grasslands from Xiwuqi.

When to go?

June through September is an optimal time with good weather although expect some rain toward August and September, when the landscapes are greenest. Winter, from November to February, sees snow and temperatures fall below zero.

Where to stay?

From Xiwuqi, comfortable day trips can be organized by tour groups to the grasslands. If you're feeling a little more audacious, stay with a family. Don't be afraid to approach families in yurts on the sides of the road and negotiate a price. Shops are hard to come by, so pack enough water and snacks if you think you need more than Mongolian food to live off during your stay.

We Recommend

• 9th 'Hong Kong Teenager Military Summer Camp' ended
• A 54-year-old repairman's flying dream
• So cute! Smallest animals on the earth
• Bitter sweet acrobatics childhood
• 2 Chinese workers killed in Seoul bridge collapse
• Fan Bingbing poses for fashion magazine