Grassland offers idyllic setting
By Jing Xian

KUNMING _ Compared with other popular Yunnan attractions such as Lijiang and Xishuangbanna, the mysterious and bewitching Zhongdian County remains a hidden, unspoilt natural paradise.
Visitors to Zhongdian will surely find themselves in a land where mysterious tranquility is harmoniously blended with the ever-changing scenery.
In addition to Bitahai Lake and White Water Terrace, usually referred to as Shangri-la, visiting the grassland can also be a unique and beautiful experience.
Take the time to observe the scenery of the Yila Grassland, just a 20-minute drive from Zhongdian's sole road, to savour another kind of beauty.
Before we reached our destination, the beautiful scenery along the road took our breath away.
The grassland, stretching from horizon to horizon is studded with grazing animals. In mid-July the pasture was a paradise of flowers. As we drove, we saw a hillside in the distance, hazy-white with rhododendron forests in full bloom.
When we arrived, we were happy to find few tourists there even though July is usually the peak time.
The first thing we did was to choose a horse, as horse riding is the optimum way to move around the grassland.
My fellow traveller and I forged ahead, observing cattle and horses leisurely grazing in the meadows, where exotic flowers and luxuriant grass waved in the gentle breeze.
The sky was a brilliant blue with clouds scattered like white cotton puffs. The jagged peaks stretched across the horizon with dark ridges that changed with the shifting light.
Our final destination was Napahai, a lake in the depths of the Yila Grassland.
The mirror-like lake lay peacefully in the vast grassland. It looked like an agate inlaid in a huge emerald carpet, the idyllic quietness exuding a majestic quality.
We both sat in silence and watched, enamoured.
The distant mountains were powerful and caused me to momentarily forget where I was, as if I were in a paradise far away from the turmoil of the mundane world.
By the time I got back to reality, dusk had fallen. The broad expanse of grassland was especially scenic at sunset.
Mother Nature has endowed Zhongdian with a wealth of scenery, making the land a happy home for the 100,000 Tibetans, Lisus, Naxis and Yis.
Actually, Zhongdian is a fitting place to get a glance at Tibetan culture.
Nicknamed "Little Tibet," the town, which is home mostly to Tibetans, exhibits all those aspects of Tibetan highland culture one associates with central Tibet _ barley cultivation, yaks, thick-walled houses and Buddhist monasteries.
Religion plays an important role in the daily lives of local residents. Small, white temple-like structures and clusters of tall bamboo poles tied with prayer flags are a common sight in the wild fields.
The Tibetan people there believe that to fulfill your dreams, all you need to do is walk around the structure clockwise and your pray will be heard by the gods.
Colourful flags, bright yellow, red, or blue squares with Buddhist prayers printed on them, decorate the area, tattered and tied to the strands of rope as well as nearby shrubs.
The blowing wind carries the prayers of the faithful to heaven. It is a fabulous sight and feeling to walk among the prayer flags.
I was curious to see what the Tibetan houses were like. Luckily, visiting Tibetan families is a regular programme offered in Zhongdian.
For 10 yuan each, we were able to choose which house we wanted to examine _ all houses are an option _ and we chose one that appeared somewhat grander than the others.
The host was happy to welcome us to his home. He was old and thin, with a dark furrowed face typical of the old Tibetan men.
We walked into the small, open courtyard which contained a few potted plants, benches and bonfire wood that appeared to be in preparation for a celebration.
He invited us into the main room of his home. Thick incense curled around _ an essential for all Tibetan families.
His home was splendid, with a beautiful carved cabinet and balcony bordered with carved railings and colourful paintings of Tibetan designs.
I assumed the family was somewhat well-off when I spied a hi-fi system.
Like its innocent, unpolluted environment, the people of Zhongdian were the ideal hosts.

(Photo: top: Napahai, a lake on the Yila Grassland, is home of black-necked cranes; next to top: The grassland turns into a sea of flowers during the summer. By Yang Shizhong)