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Grape expectations from Argentina (2)

By Zhou Siyu  (China Daily)

14:22, September 03, 2012

Farmers harvesting grapes in a vineyard in Mendoza, Argentina. The country's wine makers, the world's fifth largest producer by volume, are eager to try their fortunes in the Chinese market, although it appears now there is no one capable enough of challenging the French wine makers' position in China's wine market. (Photo/China Daily)

New World wine

Just like many things in the New World, wine was brought to Argentina by immigrants from Italy and Spain in the late 19th and early 20th century. But whereas many New World wine-making countries, including Chile, New Zealand and Australia, exported most of their wine, Argentine people drank most of theirs at home.

At a certain point in time, each person in Argentina imbibed the equivalent of 90 liters of wine every year. The amount is around 30 liters nowadays. "When I was young, there were three kinds of drinks in the house: water, water with wine and wine - and the amount of wine was determined by the age of the person," Laura Catena, an author, cited an Argentina winemaker, a 90-year-old descendant of a wine-making family, as saying in her book Vino Argentino (Argentine Wine). The high level of domestic consumption helps explain why the world remained unfamiliar with Argentinian wine until about three decades ago.

The turning point, brought about by a man named Nicolas Catena, Laura Catena's father, came in the early 1980s. An economist by training, Nicolas Catena, determined to challenge Europe's position, launched a revolution in the central area of western Argentina's Mendoza region, which now produces 70 percent of the nation's wine.

After studying viniculture, Nicolas Catena found in Mendoza the cool climate that was typical of the world's most famous wine regions by planting at higher elevations. Sheltered by the Andes Mountains from Pacific rains, the coolness and low precipitation allow vines to ripen slowly and retain acidity, allowing resultant wines to develop heightened aromas and complex flavors.

Malbec, the most famous wine grape varietal, is another key factor in Argentina's rise to becoming a major winemaker in the world. The Malbec grape, one of five Bordeaux varietals (the others are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carberet Franc and Petit Verdot), used to be very popular with French wineries. Unfortunately, the emergence of phylloxera in the late 19th century, a disease caused by an aphid-like insect, wiped out the grape completely in its French homeland.

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